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Outer Banks Winter Surfing

 In Culture & Events, Outdoors

When it comes to surfing the east coast, the Outer Banks has been on surfers’ radars for decades. Prime surf spots have always existed up and down her beaches, largely due to geographical features, and the consistently active weather phenomena occurring off of the coast.

All summer long, Outer Banks beaches remain well-stocked with surfers of all ages and skill levels. The warm temperature of the ocean allows surfers to require nothing more than their board and swimsuit to enjoy an entire day of catching great rides.

Surfers are not the only people enjoying their summer days at the beach of course,

outer banks winter surfing

and the waves can get pretty crowded. Swimmers, fishermen, kayakers, and giant inflatable unicorns are just a few of the obstacles surfers have to deal with. Which is one reason why many local surfers get some of their best shredding done in the off-season.

Ask any local surfer and they will tell you that surfing the Outer Banks is by no means, restricted to the summer months. Despite the great summer weather, surf conditions are often at their flattest in June and July. It may come as a surprise, but most regulars to the Outer Banks, “surf scene,” get pretty stoked upon the arrival of the fall and winter months. The hurricane season brings with it exhilarating surf with some of the biggest swells to be found.

Local boy and year-round surfer, Johnny Keltonic, will tell you “Hurricane season is when it’s really good down here.” His board and wetsuit usually live in the backseat of his car, just in case.

obx surfing barrel

The surfer hurricane season extends roughly from August through November, and local OBX surfers absolutely take advantage of the epic conditions.

When hurricane season ends on the Outer Banks, surfing season rolls on.

Throughout the winter, nor-easters are the source of some of the most exciting surf to be had. Strong winds attack our shores throughout the winter months creating some of the biggest waves of the year. Every season about 30 to 40 storms occur that produce waves of at least 5 feet. Late fall and winter are when the most exciting and challenging surf conditions bless the beach.

Besides the sheer thrill of it, winter surfing has a host of benefits. People who surf year-round remain physically in shape throughout the year. Once a surfer realizes they can hack it on the harshest, gnarliest, winter days; the spring and summer waves will be a breeze. Winter surfing “ups” a surfer’s skill level, not to mention their confidence level.

For first-time winter surfers, there are just a few things you’ll need to know to stay safe, warm, and comfortable.

Staying as dry and warm as possible before and after getting into the water is huge. Common sense things like remembering towels and warm clothes to wear on the beach will go a long way. Many surfers recommend having two wetsuits: there is nothing worse than putting on cold, wet gear, on a windy winter morning.

outer banks surf brett barley

Another simple tip is to stay hydrated. This is obvious in the summer when the weather is sweltering, but it is just as important in the cold weather, if not more. Staying hydrated and having some food in your stomach will keep you warmer in the water, and give you more energy and endurance. A thermos full of tea, hot cocoa, or coffee is never a bad idea for warming up on a break.

Anyone hitting the water in the fall or winter will also require some very important pieces of gear once the water temperatures dip low enough.

The most essential piece of equipment for surfing in cold water is a wetsuit. Everyone surfing in the winter water will need a good, proper fitting wetsuit.

Neoprene wetsuits are designed to insulate a surfer’s body, keeping their core temperature up. Wetsuits are measured using numbers that represent thickness in millimeters. The colder the water, the thicker your wetsuit will need to be. There are two (and sometimes) three numbers separated by a slash (4/3). The first number represents thickness around the torso and the second number refers to the thickness around the arms. If there is a third number, it will refer to the thickness of the suit around your legs.

For example, a 3/2 tends to get most surfers through the fall, when the water temp is still in the 50’s. Every surfer has their own preferences, but in general, a 4/3 is what most surfers will need to get through the winter. Picking out a wetsuit for the first time can be frustrating, but it doesn’t have to be. A knowledgeable friend or surf shop can always help steer a newbie in the right direction. Modern wetsuits have become so advanced and efficient; they will keep you warm.

Jim Vaughn is a life-long surfer who has witnessed the entire evolution of the wetsuit. Jim opened up the Whalebone Surf Shop in 1975, when he moved to the Outer Banks from Florida. He and his wife April continue to own and operate Whalebone, from its current location in Nags Head.

Jim started surfing in the early 1960s in Florida. At that time, as he recalls, “we didn’t even know what a wetsuit was, even though we would have liked to have some.”

obx whalebone surf shop

It was on the Outer Banks, where Jim started to see some of his first wetsuits, “When I moved here the wetsuits in ‘75, were prehistoric.”

He describes those early wetsuits as bulky and rigid. They never seemed to fit well and they were tough to maneuver in. Many surfers chose not to wear them because they were too distracting. Over the decades that followed, suits became much thinner, and a lot warmer. Perhaps most importantly, they actually stretched, making them easier to get into, and more comfortable to wear. Today, surf companies are significantly improving their gear each year.

outer banks winter surf wetsuit

These days, selecting a wetsuit is less stressful. Surfers tend to go for warmer suits, knowing they can still maneuver around in them.

As Jim Vaughn advises, “Now the equipment is so good, you might as well be comfortable. A good wetsuit is worth the money.”

Wetsuits cover most of the body, but in close-to-freezing water, the idea is to cover any exposed parts of the body. Gloves and booties are a must-have. When water temps are in the 40’s, it does not take long for a surfer’s hands and feet to get so numb that they can’t feel them.

A hood is another very essential piece of gear for winter. Just make sure it fits your head nice and snug so that water can’t enter the sides. Hoods usually come with a bill on the top of the forehead to keep water out of the surfer’s face, particularly while duck-diving through waves. Wearing a hood in cold water helps to prevent a common condition known as, “surfer’s ear.”

obx surf John McDaniel

When surfers and divers repeatedly get very cold water in their ears, bone growths occur which start to close off ear canals. This can lead to hearing loss as well as ear infections.

Hoods can also help surfers avoid getting “brain freeze.”

Anyone who eats ice cream knows all about brain breeze. This same effect also happens to surfers when too much cold water gets on their heads and face. Almost every cold-water surfer has experienced this effect at least once.

Jim Vaughn clearly recalls one of his last brain freeze experiences.Jim was out surfing with a group of friends one day during the month of March, after a particularly cold winter. Jim, of course, had all the right gear and plenty of experience. Even so, when his friends pulled off their hoods, proclaiming, “We’re tough,” and ran towards the surf; Jim reluctantly followed.

Giving in to peer pressure, he caught a few waves but eventually got caught on the inside and was forced to duck-dive about four or five waves. He inevitably ended up with a “blinding headache”, and found himself standing in shallow water; looking towards the beach.

In overwhelming pain and unable to see, Jim stood in place, screaming (mostly expletives), which was all he could think to do, “to do anything to get some adrenaline going.” This sure was a sight to see for the people who happened to be strolling down the beach just a few feet in front of Jim.

For anyone planning on doing some Outer Banks winter surfing: be safe, stay warm, and have a blast! Just don’t forget to follow Jim and Johnny’s advice. Wear a hood! It will keep you warm, stave off surfer’s ear and ice cream headaches!

Nick Leinweber lives in Kill Devil Hills, where he is a recreational writer and an aspiring surfer.

Nick Leinweber
Author: Nick Leinweber

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