By Jes Gray

Beautiful sunsets over the water, riverfront boardwalk shops filled with curated goods, restaurants serving locally produced cuisine, miles of hiking and paddling trails, historic buildings and sites, beautifully designed accommodations, great fishing and well-serviced marinas makes one think of many popular areas on the East Coast. But did you know all of these amenities can be found on the Inner Banks of North Carolina? Whilst the Outer Banks often soaks up the sun of media attention to this region, the towns across the sounds to the west are some of the most compelling historic and natural destinations in the area, though they often remain unknown to the many millions of “OBX” enthusiasts.

From “Little” Washington to New Bern, around the Pamlico County Peninsula, this special area of the Inner Banks includes three counties, three rivers, and countless smaller creeks and pocosins leading into the Pamlico Sound. The Tar-Pamlico, one river with two names, creates the border between Washington’s Beaufort County and the peninsula’s Pamlico County, while New Bern is across the Neuse River, named for the Neusiok or “peace” Indians, one of the three oldest surviving English applied namesakes in the US.

Bath
One of the first European settlements in North Carolina, this Pamlico River fronted community had documented non-native residents in the 1690’s. With only 50 residents, it became a town in 1705, making Bath the “Oldest Incorporated Town in NC”. While remaining small, some 300+ years later it has retained a large amount of historic character.

Learn about the early colonial life of this area by visiting some of the many surviving structures, including historic homes like the Van Der Veer House, the Palmer-Marsh House and the Bonner House. The oldest church in the state is also in the center of town; St. Thomas Episcopal has been active since 1701, before the building was constructed in 1734.

Bath’s St. Thomas Episcopal, North Carolina’s oldest church was built in 1734. Photo by Bill Russ, for VisitNC.com

Most famously, Bath is associated with the legendary pirate Edward Teach, more commonly known as Blackbeard. Friends with Governor Eden, who pardoned him, and Tobias Knight, the customs collector, who both lived on Bath Creek, Blackbeard traveled many times from his hideout on Ocracoke to ferry pirated goods through this early port.

Stay a few nights nearby at the Inn on Bath Creek, a small bed and breakfast across from the town dock on Main Street, located in the center of this historic area with several shops and eateries. Several parks like Bonner Point dot the waterfront, for a pleasant stop or a picnic. The area is of course also boat friendly, with docks and marinas like the Bath Harbor Motel & Marina for those traveling the Intracoastal Waterway, fishing, or just enjoying the area.

Looking for more native scenery? Head to the nearby Goose Creek State Park, where trails like the ADA accessible Palmetto Boardwalk take you through a Cypress swampland along the Pamlico River, by remnants of settlers’ tar kilns and railroads from the lumber boom. Paddling, fishing and picnicking are also popular uses of this park between Bath and our next town, Little Washington.

Little Washington
Prior to European settlement, the river’s namesake tribe, known to the 1580’s Raleigh expedition as Pomouik, enjoyed Little Washington’s river frontage and estuaries for its many fishing and hunting opportunities. Learn about this unique environment and cultural heritage at the North Carolina Estuarium, the world’s first interactive education center dedicated to the important role of these areas, where the tidal mouths of large rivers meet streams.
Initially called “Forks of the Tar”, in 1776 it became the first town in the newly formed nation to be named after the first president, though General George Washington was never known to have visited. While most refer to it as “Little” Washington to distinguish if from D.C., some locals prefer to call it “The Original Washington”.

Explore five self-guided walking tours which immerse you in the many layers of history that formed the current town. Venture further onto the waterfront docks and peruse the many locally owned shops, which span from crafts and antiques to coffee and ice cream. Little Shoppes & South Market Antiques, the Art Gallery at the Turnage Theater, and the Harbor District Market all offer opportunities to shop at multiple small local vendors and artisans.
For more than a day trip, the Little Inn at Little Washington, The Ell Hotel, and Elmwood 1820 Bed & Breakfast Inn all offer well-regarded boutique local accommodations, while the area also hosts several larger hotel options for any budget.

Kayakers on Little Washington’s Tar-Pamlico Water Trail enjoying a picnic platform at dusk.
Courtesy of VisitNC.com

Oriental
Settled by Lewis B. Midyette in the 1870’s, the legend describes the founding fisherman anchoring in Oriental to escape a gale, then once the storm cleared, climbing a tree and being so enamored with the view, he moved to the area and encouraged others to follow. Though originally known as “Smiths Creek,” which runs to the north, Lewis’s wife Rebecca had seen a nameplate from the May 1862 wreck of the Oriental Sailing Steamer, and she felt it would be a better name for the village.

Learn about early life here at the Oriental History Museum which includes a 1.2-mile walking tour of many historic sites and an original porthole from the wreck. Dedicated to the water, this self-professed “Sailing Capital of North Carolina” has more boats than people; plain to see by its many sailing clubs and marinas, like the Oriental Harbor Village, Whittaker Pointe, and River Dunes. Free dock access is plentiful as well, with five free Oriental Town Docks, two of which offer overnight parking.

This area focuses on its access to the Neuse and other creeks, and the parks are not dissimilar; Lou Mac Park, Neuse River Recreation Area, and John Bond Town Beach are just three examples of the town’s well-maintained public, water accessible, outside recreation areas. If you didn’t BYOB (bring your own boat), many charter boat tours and fishing excursions are available from experienced local captains like the many working with the 60+ boat fleet of locally based Bow to Stern Boating, which also hosts sailing lessons, boat, kayak and stand-up paddle board rentals for all ages and experience levels.

Sunset at the harbor of Oriental, “The Sailing Capital of NC”
Courtesy of VisitNC.com

When not out on the water, Oriental offers plenty of entertainment. The New River Brewery has weekly events hosting an array of changing food trucks and their well-regarded handcrafted beers like Lili’s Breakfast Stout, voted 2019’s Best Beer In NC. A bit further from town is the restaurant and venue The Silos, which hosts live bands and other local entertainment year-round.

If you’re hungry, there are several options ranging from large dockside establishments like Barcos Food Company to the simple but beloved Rick’s NC BBQ, a family run affair offering affordable North Carolina style barbecue, baby back ribs and fried chicken. Shops and galleries also dot the dockside village center, with clothing stores like Nautical Wheelers and Martha’s Cottage, multiple marine outfitters like the Inland Waterway Provision Co, and galleries like the long running Village Gallery and Art Works Oriental, a newer spot that also offers classes.

For a longer visit, stay in this pedestrian and bicycle friendly town at a historic bed and breakfast like the Magnolia House, Cartwright House or Inn at Oriental, or book one of the local hotels like the River Neuse Suites or Oriental Marina & Inn, which both have water views.

New Bern
New Bern is located on the southern side in Craven County, where the confluence of the Trent River and Neuse River empties into the headwaters of the Pamlico Sound. At 250 miles, the Neuse is the longest river contained in North Carolina and one of the widest, spanning almost six nautical miles near the mouth and averaging three miles wide from the Intracoastal Waterway.

Shallower water is accessed by the many paddling trails, like Brice’s Creek Canoe Trails, featuring the only National Forest saltwater trail in the nation. Latham-Whitehurst Nature Park also offers kayaking and fishing, along with miles of trails through 133 acres of preserved coastline. Explore these rivers further by taking an excursion with Cruise the Neuse Boat Tours based out of the Grand Marina, or book a charter from the many local captains.

When Swiss and German settlers arrived in 1710, New Bern was an established Tuscarora Indian village called Chattoka, and their name for the Neuse was Gow-ta-no or “Pine in Water.” Their usurpation led to the bloody Tuscarora War, and it was decades before the area was further settled. Those first settlers were reminded of their homeland’s capital, Bern. In Switzerland “Bern” is an old Germanic word for “Bear”, and you can view 80+ statues created back in 2010 for the town’s 300th anniversary celebration on their Bear Tracks Hunt walking tour, along with many flags representing their sister city.

The Tryon Palace on the Trent River, in New Bern Courtesy of VisitNC.com

Home to the royal governor’s mansion built between 1767-70, Tryon Palace became the first capital of North Carolina, built for William Tryon and designed by English architect John Hawks. When the American Revolution took hold, New Bern and its palace became the new state’s capital, hosting four governors before the capital moved to Raleigh in the 1790s. The property serves as an important center for historical interpretation and colonial architecture, with several other historic buildings like the Dixon House. Tour the grounds through a formal Palace Tour or via the Galleries & Gardens Pass. Nearby the Attmore-Oliver House hosts the New Bern Historical Society, with a small museum providing a peek into the life of the town’s early residents featuring a self-guided tour of the original dining room, sitting room, and parlor.

Proximity to the Ocracoke Inlet and Pamlico Sound provided New Bern a prime location for the Triangle trade of the Caribbean and New England. This ideal waterfront spot helped it grow into a vibrant town, often called “the Athens of the South,”. The sentiment was taken to heart with the naming of the Athens Theater in 1911, now the New Bern Civic Theater, which hosts local and traveling shows and events.

A town of many firsts, you can visit the Birthplace of Pepsi Museum and Store and get a float at their historic pharmacy soda counter. Up the street, the inventor’s original historic house is now a fine dining restaurant called The Chelsea, which is amongst many restaurants and shops in this still vibrant historic downtown waterfront. Each month 30+ art and craft shops from the area stay open a bit later for the ArtWalk, a great opportunity to meet the artists and shop for unique decor and gifts. After dark, take a ghost tour with the Ghosts of New Bern, based out of the quirky Black Cat Shoppe.

Though a day trip to the area can suffice, there is plentiful accommodation for longer visits. For a fully immersive experience, stay at one of the beautiful and well-appointed B&B’s set-in 19th century homes like the Aerie, Jarvis Mansion, Benjamin Ellis House or Hanna House. For families or groups, there are larger hotels and many short-term rental options near this historic destination, making it a great stop on your Inner Banks adventure.

In journeying to this area of the Inner Banks, several scenic options are available. While some venture entirely by boat via the Intracoastal Waterway, many prefer venturing by car, passing over bridges and through farmland or even a combination employing the ferry from Ocracoke or Cherry Point.

However you choose to trek, the Pamlico County Peninsula from Little Washington to New Bern offers attractions for young and old alike. With fishing opportunities in fresh, brackish, or salt water, outdoor activities like hiking, kayaking, cycling, or sailing, or experiences in local history, culture, and cuisine, this quiet region impresses even the most experienced travelers looking for a serene getaway.

Author: Jes Gray