Photos Courtesy of Edenton/Chowan County Tourism

Spend a weekend this fall in Edenton, the well-loved scenic town in the Inner Banks. On the agenda: a warm drink, a rocking chair on a porch and a waterfront view.

Edenton in autumn is like a cozy blanket handed down through generations, a destination where you can curl up, relax, and be heart-warmed in the present while connected to the past. Life seems to slow down to the pace of colonial life—horse-drawn carriages, lantern-lit houses, the fall harvest, the quiet harbor. With historic ghost walks, the county fair, and small-town charm, visit Edenton this fall to see what’s new… and old.

Get a front row seat to U.S. colonial history with a low-key fall weekend in Edenton, where the community has lovingly preserved buildings, heritage gardens, and good old fashioned hospitality. This charming town is located on Edenton Bay where the Chowan River meets the calm waters of the Albemarle Sound. Bald cypress trees holding court at the water’s edge seem to outnumber people. “If you’re looking for a picturesque fall getaway, Edenton is the perfect place to experience the change of seasons,” says Chowan County Tourism Director Erienne Mizell. “Our vibrant fall foliage in October and pleasant 70-degree days presents a cozy alternative for those wanting to savor the charm of the season without braving the frosty peak season in the mountains.” A walkable downtown, no shortage of restful wraparound porches, and fresh seafood are among the perfect ingredients for easing into the cooler months with a relaxing getaway.

Photos Courtesy of Edenton/Chowan County Tourism

Spooky Ghost Walks and History Tours. In this 300-year-old-town, some of North Carolina’s oldest homes are the stars. Many buildings survived the Revolutionary war, Civil war, and the peak days of industrial herring fishing and cotton, tobacco, and peanut farming. Curious about what lurks inside the walls of these storied homes? Immerse yourself in history with a Ghost Walk (Thurs.-Sat. at 8pm; call to book; private groups by reservation) or Evening Lantern Tours (Oct. 20-21, 2023). For daytime visitors, fall is the perfect time to see blooms thriving like autumn crocus, Arabian jasmine, cornflower, and more at the 1758 Cupola House gardens. This national historic landmark was restored in 2022 and is open for self-guided tours. Other must-visit historical buildings include the impressively well-preserved (and still in use) 256-year-old Chowan County Courthouse; the Penelope Barker House Welcome Center on the Edenton Bay harbor, home to the Edenton Historical Commission with a gift shop and maps for a self-guided walking tour around town; and the 1897-built Kadesh A.M.E. Zion Church. More guided walking tours on 18th century architecture, Civil War trails, and Edenton resident, author, and Underground Railroad heroine Harriet Jacobs are available with the Historic Edenton Visitor Center.

See Fall Colors From the Water. New in 2023, the highly anticipated Harbor Towns Cruises, based in Edenton, offers passenger rides among five Inner Banks towns: Edenton, Elizabeth City, Columbia, Plymouth, Hertford, plus Manteo (scheduled to operate April through November). “The surrounding waters have always been a defining characteristic of life in Edenton, so the initiative of Harbor Towns Cruises feels like a natural extension of our community spirit,” says Mizell. The outfit joins other guided boat trips on the Albemarle Sound, including the popular Edenton Bay Cruises, which are run by storyteller and captain Mark Thesier on a six-passenger electric boat (available through October, weather permitting). Albemarle Fishing Charters takes people fishing on the sound or crabbing in the Outer Banks. Paddlers can book rentals and guided trips through Native Girl Kayaking, and explore Pembroke and Queen Anne Creeks and the Chowan River; camping platforms in Chowan County are open year-round. Visit Albemarle Resource Conservation and Development Council for info on area paddle trails. 

Cozy Up Outside with Picture-Perfect Picnics and Parks. Edenton is wonderful for lounging, picnicking, strolling, bicycle riding, birding, and exploring trails like Cannons Ferry Heritage River Walk or Bennett’s Millpond boardwalk. You’re almost always in sight of the water in Edenton, whether you’re grabbing a rocking chair on the porch of the Penelope Barker House Welcome Center to enjoy your morning coffee, spreading out a blanket and snacks on the Courthouse green, stopping to admire the fall color that lines the bay from Queen Anne’s Park, or checking out the docks. 

Mingle with Locals at a Fall Community Event. Shrimp By The Bay is an annual October fundraiser on the scenic courthouse green, a seafood buffet that is “a quintessential coastal celebration,” says Mizell, who also recommends the annual Chowan County Regional Fair in late September. Once a month, the Sunday Street Party Series transforms King Street into an all-ages block party with food trucks and live music. On October 25 every year the Edenton Tea Party celebrates the day, in 1774, when Penelope Barker led 50 women to protest British taxation. Fall harvest time is sure to yield fresh finds at the Saturday morning Edenton Farmer’s Market, open year-round.

Rainy Day Activities. Visit the Edenton Cotton Mill Museum of History at the complex that processed cotton from 1898 to 1995; it’s now luxury condos. Take a cooking class with A Still Life/Cotton Gin Culinary, a collaborative interiors and kitchen space in downtown. Taylor Theater was built in 1925 and is still in operation. Attend an arts workshop or check out the local wood, fine art, and ceramic artisans’ talents at the Chowan Arts Council, which expanded to a larger, 3,000 square-foot space in 2019. Or see some wildlife: kids love the small aquarium at the Edenton Fish Hatchery.

Bring Your Golf Clubs. Three Edenton-area golf courses have stunning views of the Albemarle Sound. Links at Mulberry Hill is nearest to town; Occano is an acclaimed Arnold Palmer-designed course; The Sound Links Golf Course is part of thriving retirement community Albemarle Plantation. Stay for a bite to eat at their casual Dockside Café or Plantation Clubhouse restaurant on the 18th green.

Holiday Shopping: Shop Local. With three dozen mom and pop shops lining three blocks, Edenton defines small town vibes. Gregarious Goose has artistic gifts and crafts. Women’s clothing can be found at Downtown Diva, The Style Palette Boutique, and the Polka-Dot Palm. Adventure gear outpost Surf, Wind, and Fire opened in 2021, and in addition to selling tents, t-shirts, and other outdoors goods, they serve beer, coffee, and homemade sodas from a small in-store bar.

Photos Courtesy of Edenton/Chowan County Tourism

Breakfast, Coffee, and Sweets. Fuel up with a pumpkin-flavored latte, a pimento cheese breakfast sandwich or an apple fritter from Edenton Coffee House. Find southern breakfast treats like buttermilk pan biscuits at family-owned Corner Baking Co., which opened in January 2023. Most famously, Blount’s Mutual Drugs is an old-fashioned soda fountain serving floats and fresh-squeezed orangeade.

Lunch and Dinner Spots. Edenton is home to a number of expert chefs who serve a steady supply of fresh seafood from local waters. The Herringbone on the Waterfront, located in an 1800s icehouse, marks one year in business this Halloween weekend; look for fresh fall produce on the menu along with seasonal catches like tuna and snapper; don’t miss weekend brunch for Brioche French Toast or Chicken + Waffles. Locals’ longtime favorite Waterman’s Grill in downtown serves lots of seafood, including popular fried fish tacos. 309 Bistro & Spirits has salads, wraps, and homemade chips on the lunch menu, with local seafood and original cocktails in the evening. Edenton boasts barbecue, and plenty of it, at Old Colony Smokehouse, open for lunch and dinner counter service with outdoor picnic tables.

Sunsets Over the Water, Music, and Dancing: Head over to Edenton Bay Oyster Bar on the marina to take in a multicolored Albemarle sunset over a plate of that day’s oyster harvest and a refreshing glass of wine. Or, cap an afternoon with a casual park hang near the lighthouse, where beer, wine, coffee, and ice cream are served from a retired Edenton trolley that was restored and opened by the Herringbone owners in summer 2022. If it’s dancing you’re after, Friday nights at David’s New Red Barn on the Chowan River features live country and bluegrass. Edenton Bay Trading Company is a wine and beer bottle shop that also sells artisan cheese, chocolate, and cigars, but the main draw for festive-minded tourists and locals alike is the cute rear patio, where DJs spin classic hits on “Sangria Saturdays.”

Where to Stay. Wake up to the soft garden sounds of an Edenton morning at a charming bed-and-breakfast, where the scents of authentic southern hospitality (fresh-baked bread or southern grits with bacon, anyone?) will help you start your day. Captain’s Quarters and Grandville Queen Inn, both renovated in 2022, are walking distance to downtown. The Inner Banks Inn is a pet-friendly collection of four buildings, including a rehabbed barn on 2.75 acres; a fifth building houses acclaimed southern restaurant The Table, which sources food from nearby farms. Outside of downtown, Mulberry Hill Inn boasts a sound side golf course location. With options as charming as these, you’ll be planning a return over the holidays to see Edenton in its winter splendor before you’ve even left.

Directions from the Outer Banks: Edenton is a fairly easy 1.5-hour drive from most places on the Outer Banks, making it a great option for a day trip or weekender. Visit VisitEdenton.com for more information.

This article is part of a series on places to visit in the “Inner Banks.” See our next issue for another day trip idea for turning your attention inland.

Author: Danielle Fairfield